Understanding Skin Aging: Why Over-Exfoliation May Be Aging You Faster
When we think of skin aging, we often turn to quick fixes—peels, scrubs, dermaplaning, and the like—in hopes of reversing time. But understanding how your skin truly works can be the difference between slowing down aging or accelerating it.
The Relationship Between the Dermis and Epidermis
Skin aging is not just about what you see on the surface. It's about understanding the relationship between the dermis (the deeper layer) and the epidermis (the outer layer). These two layers work together like a team. When one is depleted or damaged, the other suffers.
It’s basic physiology: as we age, skin slows down. From the age of 25, your dermis begins to thin at a rate of about 1% per year. This is a natural process. As the dermis becomes thinner, your epidermal cells thicken and slow down in an effort to protect the dermis. But here's the catch—when we interfere with this delicate balance, problems begin.
What’s Thinning Your Dermis?
The dermis naturally thins with age. But that’s not all. UV exposure, poor nutrition, and other stressors can deplete its energy and resources, accelerating the process. While this is happening, many of us are unintentionally speeding up the aging process through over-exfoliation.
The Hidden Dangers of Over-Exfoliation
Chemical peels, scrubs, microdermabrasion, and dermaplaning are popular treatments, but overuse can be harmful. These treatments can strip away more than just dead skin cells. They often peel off the stratum corneum, the granular layer, and even reach into the spiny layer of the epidermis—sometimes all the way down to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ).
What does that mean for your skin?
You’re not just removing dead skin. You may also be stripping away:
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Immune system communication cells
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The protective bilayer (formed from healthy fats like fish oils)
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Moisture-retaining enzymes
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Vitamin D stores
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Protective shields for pigment cells
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Living cells that maintain a healthy barrier
All of these elements are critical for protecting your skin and keeping the dermis healthy.
The Epidermis Doesn’t Fully Recover
Here’s the important part: the epidermis never fully recovers after exfoliation—especially when done with strong acids, scrubs, or devices like microdermabrasion and dermaplaning. Since the epidermis doesn’t have its own blood supply, it relies on the dermis to repair damage. When the dermis has to divert its already-depleted resources to fix the epidermis, it sacrifices its own maintenance. This nutrient drain contributes directly to aging.
Protect Your Skin by Supporting the Epidermis
So what can you do?
The key to healthier, more resilient skin lies in preserving the integrity of the epidermis. By maintaining tight-fitting, healthy skin cells in the outer layer, you’re not only reducing visible signs of aging but also helping to prevent the onset of other skin issues tied to a compromised barrier.
Final Thoughts
Aging is natural, but premature aging is often self-inflicted through misunderstanding how our skin works. Instead of constantly peeling and scrubbing away at the surface, focus on supporting your skin’s natural functions. Protect your epidermis, nourish your dermis, and work with your skin—not against it.